Showing posts with label Snow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Snow. Show all posts

Monday, April 29, 2013

Hamburg in the snow

Hamburg in the snow


Spring seemed late arriving in Europe this year. Elegant Hamburg was still under a blanket of snowy drifts in late March.


Waking to a city blanketed

Interior of St Michael's Church: Lutheran simplicity

And this would be Dr Luther himself

A fierce-looking angel on the portal of st Michael's



Snowy streets

Interior of the Rathaus hall

Brahms' House

Cafes on the canals

Rathaus (Town Hall)


Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Elegant Helsinki



Welcome to Helsinki, the elegant snowy capital of Finland. Frozen harbours, Lutheran churches, smart restaurants, hot chocolate, saunas, sausage and salmon, Sibelius, and this lovely snowbird sitting at the waterfront --




Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Sibelius Landscapes

Monochrome


Snow, you'd think, could be described as 'white-on-white', but snowy landscapes are more black-and-white, with trees, buildings, branches starkly silhouetted against the white drifts. With low light levels the landscape seems monochrome...and what better music with which to view these pictures of Finnish Lapland than that of Sibelius, Finland's classical master. This is his Violin Concerto, Opus 47.






Monday, April 22, 2013

A little taste of Finland

What language is that?

A little taste of Finland in pictures....





And a map to make sure we know where we are...



Map from Google Maps

Sunday, April 21, 2013

The Blue Moment

The Blue Moment


From the beginning of December to mid-January is “Kaamos” in Finnish, which is the word to describe the Polar Night.

As you no doubt know, above the Arctic Circle in winter there are very few hours of daylight. However, it's a misconception that these areas endure 24 hours of darkness in the winter. Although at the winter solstice the Poles themselves might experience this, most places above the Arctic Circle (and below the Antarctic Circle) experience various forms of 'Polar Twilight'.

Here's how Wikipedia explains it:

Polar twilight occurs in areas that are located at the inner border of the polar circles, where the sun will be on or below the horizon all day on the winter solstice. There is then no true daylight at the solar culmination, only civil twilight. This means that the sun is below the horizon, but by less than 6°. During civil twilight, there may still be enough light for normal outdoor activities because of light scattering by the upper atmosphere and refraction. Street lamps may remain on and a person looking at a window from within a brightly lit room may see their reflection even at noon, as the level of outdoor illuminance will be below that of many illuminated indoor spaces.

Less scientific perhaps, though more eatherally beautiful, is the so-called 'Blue Moment' - a point where the sun rises to a certain height above the horizon and drapes the snowy landscape in shades of blue --









Saturday, April 20, 2013

God bless our dogs

Ready to sled?

So what's a fun thing to do in the depths of winter in northern Europe? How about a trip to Finnish Lapland, 250 kms above the Arctic Circle, to spend some time looking for the Northern Lights (and failing to find them), taking a husky safari, heading out in a reindeer sleigh, and drinking hot chocolate with a slug of something warming in it?

Sure! Great idea...






Here's a great place to stay: Kakslauttanen, a few kilometres out of Ivalo, where there's an airport. Ask for the 'Traditional House', a wonderful wooden farmhouse with a big fireplace - and the obligatory sauna. Or you can stay in a glass igloo if you prefer.

Just make sure to try that hot chocolate....

The Traditional House

Ah, yes...just what you need when the sun sets at 2.30 pm



Monday, November 7, 2011

Fear, Frozen Fear.


Don: he may be laughing on the outside, but....



The sixth Bootsnall prompt:

Just as travel can be fun and exciting, it can also have its challenging, or even downright scary, moments. Being in a new place pushes us out of our comfort zone and makes us face our fears. Tell about a time you had to face your fear when traveling, and what was the result.

Didn’t have to think too long for this one. When a middle aged, unfit, inexperienced lady takes up trekking in the throes of some kind of mid-life crisis, there are certain to be MANY fearful moments - guaranteed. Here’s one of my early ones:

Continent: Antarctica. Setting: the side of a steep-ish snowy slope. Dramatis personae: me, several fellow expeditioners, Alexei the Russian sailor, and one chinstrap penguin.

In Antarctica, I had pushed quite a few personal comfort zones, in traveling there on my own, coping with the wretched seasickness (which from past experience I was quite well aware would happen), and then getting involved with the excursions. I was feeling good, and proud of myself.

Then . . . (you knew this was coming, didn’t you?) there was a shore excursion where I got just a little too confident and pushed a little too far outside the comfort zone. We had gone ashore to visit a Gentoo penguin colony, and I’d done the wobbly ship’s walkway, and the leaping into the sea to wade ashore, and I was feeling cocky. The colony we were to visit was up a snowy incline — been there, done that, I said to myself, with way too little forethought, and up I started. Have I mentioned that I’m not very good with snow?  This particular slope was much steeper than the previous hike. It zigzagged up the hill, where others had blazed the trail, and I had walked up two or three zigs and zags before I looked back down — and froze. I immediately decided that I was going no further, I would sit on a convenient rock and regroup, and then descend. The sitting on the rock part went OK, but I just could not contemplate the descent without horror. I was quite convinced that if I stood up and faced downhill, I would tumble down. The fear was quite paralyzing. So much for the brave adventurer.

One annoying chipstrap penguin.

They may look cute...
(This is a Gentoo)

Now, there were plenty of people about. Indeed, as I sat glued to my rock, others were cheerfully trudging uphill, waving hello as they confidently and competently ascended.  So not only did I feel scared rigid, I also felt stupid. But then that feeling was mitigated somewhat by the fact that others began to join me. Before long, there were three or four of we frightened souls sitting at the junction of a zig and a zag, perched on the rock or plopped in the snow, wondering how the hell we were ever going to get down, and — almost as mortifying — how to pretend to the others that we weren’t really such incompetent cowards. One lady sitting with us was blessed with a husband who had no trouble at all with the slope. When he came by, I thought he would gallantly rescue her.  But all he did was urge her to get up and keep going because “what was the problem?” She was practically crying with fear. He went on up and left her, presumably planning to fetch her on the way back.



One member of our little troupe of people way outside their comfort zone was a big guy named Don,who was a squid fisherman from Newport Beach, US. He had been the life and soul of the ship’s dining table. Now he was cracking jokes as he sat, dressed from head to toe in vivid yellow waterproofs, stuck on the side of a steep snowy slope in Antarctica, with several basket case women. You have to hand it to him. While we were sitting, we watched a Chinstrap penguin (who really shouldn’t have been there, because this was a Gentoo colony) work its way laboriously up the slope, making its own ‘penguin highway’ to the top. This distracted us for a time. When the penguin reached the people highway that our group had made when zigzagging up, it found a nice cosy indentation, and decided to sit there. So now we had a large yellow fisherman, several ladies with no head for heights, and a sleeping penguin.

Chipstrap penguins...laughing at us?

About this time, our eccentric group was noticed by Dutch, our fearless expedition leader, who walked up from the foreshore to investigate. As he ascended, he noticed the penguin, and stopped, because the rules are that you don’t approach the wildlife too closely. He enquired about our problem, and we told him we couldn’t get down. This seemed to puzzle him, as of course he could keep his balance on the steep slope, and found it hard to believe that we couldn’t. His solution to the situation was to tramp out a new route through the snow, skirting the penguin widely, say to us “there you are!”, and then head on up to the rest of the group. Since the new trail was no less steep than the old trail — in fact, possibly more so — we were no better off.

Bergy bits on the Antarctic shore.

Now, I don’t know about the others. They may have told this story to their friends when they got home and it may have seemed quite different to them. But I was so far out of my comfort zone that I was close to hysteria. Because of the people around, I really didn’t get into the mode of trying to figure things out for myself. Apart from an attempt to slide down the trail on my bottom — thwarted by the penguin — I didn’t really try to use my own brain to solve the situation. I just waited for someone to rescue me, and grew increasingly distraught that they didn’t seem to be doing that. Then Don began to be funny, and I dissolved into hysterical giggling. The amusement arose from Don’s efforts to get the penguin to move, without breaking the rules about annoying the wildlife (or at least not letting anyone see him doing so). He began by surreptitiously throwing bits of snow at it; and this was followed by cat imitations. Would penguins be afraid of cats? Probably this has never been tested. I can report that this penguin was unmoved by either tactic. Don’s stream of wise-cracks was probably intended to keep up everyone’s spirits, which it sort of did, but being extremely amused and extremely scared simultaneously was very weird.

The end of this sorry tale is that our plight was noticed by the staff on the shore, and they came to rescue us. People came back down from their trek to the top and assisted us. I was escorted down the hill by Alexei, a Russian sailor, on whom I leaned quite mortifyingly. I just could not keep my balance on that slope. But bless Alexei, or I’d still be there.

Safety!

When I reached the shore, I sat apart for a while on a rock, and watched two penguins strutting and diving, put my head my hands, and tried to keep a sense of perspective. Sorry to say, I was not successful. When I made it back to the ship, a motherly American lady asked me how it had gone, and I dissolved into tears. I spent the next two hours hiding in a wing chair in the ship’s library, trying to stop crying, and speaking sternly to myself, to try to regain my composure. I had certainly pushed outside my comfort zone, and had not coped. Moreover, plenty of people found the situation that had scared me to be perfectly easy and do-able, adding severe inadequacy to the mix of emotions. The incident provided me with plenty to reflect upon.

[Excerpt from Chapter 35 of Tea In The Library, by your blogger]

Antarctica: beautiful and fearsome.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Kindness


One snowy day in Takayama....


I’m a little behind with the Bootsnall challenge, due to the intrusion of Guy Fawkes Day and the need to say something about that. But here is Day 5’s prompt:

One of the greatest joys of travel can be the random acts of kindness you’ll receive from total strangers. Have you ever found kindness from strangers in unexpected places?

This is one that prompts a number of memories, but the one I’m going to share with you is a story from Japan. I was travelling there with three others a few years ago, and we were on the train to Takayama in the Japanese Alps, with snow beginning to fall gently. We had a reservation to stay at a traditional Japanese ryokan. I was having a desultory browse through the guide book when I came across the information that “in most rural areas in Japan credit cards are not accepted”. Er...guys, how much yen do we have? We pooled our resources of cash, and found it to be quite a bit short of the price of a night in the ryokan. So first thing off the train we headed to the Tourist Information Booth to ask for the location of the closest ATM (which, in Japan at that time, had to be an “international” ATM or our cards would be useless). The Tourist Information Booth did not speak English. Hmmm...


Our ryokan before the snow really set in.
Off we trudged through the ever-deepening snow to our ryokan, where the small elderly Japanese proprietress greeted us in kimono and apron, and we all knelt on her tatami mat to bow and welcome. After the greetings, I opened the painful subject. “Er...you take credit card?” Horrified: “Ah, no! No credit card!” Painfully ashamed: “I’m sorry but we don’t have enough cash.” Dismayed: “No cash?” Sadly, hanging head: “No cash.” Brightly: “No ploblem! You...send!” What the little lady meant - bless her - was that she was perfectly willing to trust this bedraggled family to mail her the money later!

Our ryokan after the snow really set in.

Enjoying our hostess's kind hospitality.


To cut a long story short, we did manage to find an “international” ATM the next day and were flush with cash at check out time. Out came the little lady with her address all written out, ready for us to mail her the money. It was in Japanese characters, which might have confused the Australian post office. But in any case I was never so relieved as when I was able to triumphantly wave a fistful of yen and proclaim “we have cash!” And very excited our hostess was to see it, too.

We set out into the now deep snow drifts, warmed by the trust and kindness of our hostess.


Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Possibly the best hike ever

The French Alps: fabulous hiking
Yesterday the sun shone on the snow on a cloudless day and I met a new friend: my guide par excellence, Christian. Finally I got out on the mountains to see what the skiers had been raving about, and they were not exaggerating. Indeed, they were under-aggerating (if I may coin a spell-check challenge). The few pictures I can post here really do not do the day justice. A more expansive album has been posted on Facebook, and you may be able to see it here.

The day dawned completely cloudless and with unbelievably bright sunshine - this alone would have been enough to have me content. But there was more. I had thought of a short gondola ride up the mountain, a bit of a walk, lunch, then down on the chair lift. But Christian had other suggestions. We drove for about 15 minutes to the backside of the mountain, he heaved the snow shoes out of the car, and off we set. He also provided walking poles, totally essential. Up the hill we went, crunching on snow that hadn't seen a new fall for about three weeks, wending our way along snowy forest paths and around antique wooden chalets. Each of these had once been a working farmlet, and some still run a few goats and cows in the summer. Some now feed skiers and tourists, and others are pretty much abandoned - at this time of the year, anyway. All are ridiculously picturesque.

Snow shoes on the feet of your blogger
Did I mention the snow shoes? This was a novelty for me. I had tried them once before, years ago in the Canadian Rockies, egged on by some Canadian friends (I will skip lightly over the belly-laughs at my attempts to walk on them). This time, I found them a huge success. This is not to say that I didn't - quite often - step on my own snow shoes and tumble over. But generally speaking I got on very well, and felt very secure trudging up the slopes. My usual emotion trudging up a snowy slope is complete terror at sliding off. This excellent piece of equipment, and a few pointers from Christian, enabled me to really enjoy going up the hill and across the snowy fields.

There may be some of you out there who are amazed at this - I know I am - but we hiked all the way up to the skiers. We caught a skiers' chair lift for a few meters (avoiding another 1 hour walk - it was lunch time, after all) and alighted at a place called L'Alpette (as in Little Alp) which is at 1895 meters (Megeve Village is 1100 m, so that's a reasonable ascent). At L'Alpette there is - trust the French - an excellent restaurant on the piste. 

After what was admittedly a long lunch - Christian and I split a bottle of Savoie white wine - we were on our way again. We could have walked a short distance and then taken a gondola down; but instead we headed on up; and then - at Christian's suggestion - off the skiers' trail and into the backwoods again. Our trail took a different circuit down the mountainside and back to where we had begun. We spent about three hours coming down, as the shadows lengthened and the deer came out on the hillsides. The snow was deep, the forests magical, the views spectacular, and Christian kept saying "a voila!"

Mont Blanc comes into view


Christian checks the back country views

Your happy blogster on the trail

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Megève

Chalet in Megeve
How does this sound? "Spacious rooms inundated with light..." It sounds pretty darned good to me, and with any luck the description is not just marketing fluff, but is actually true. For tomorrow your blogger is heading off for a week in the snow, with a group of convivial buddies, to celebrate Kyle's 50th Birthday (yes, I know we have the Birthday Concert coming up, but 50 is a Big Birthday, and requires a great deal of celebration of various kinds). Now, the other convivial buddies are skiiers, which is a thing I am not, so my plan is to enjoy the village of Megève, patronise the spa, read fiction as a change from philosophy, and absorb whatever light is available. And of course I am sure that I will be very good at aprés ski.

Megeve locator
And where is Megève, exactly, I hear you ask? In France, not far from the border with Switzerland. To get there, fly to Geneva, get a car and turn....well, west, I assume. You can see some photos at this website, and Wikipedia gives the details. Megève is not far from Mont Blanc, in the French Alps. The mountains skied at Megève itself are Mont d'Arbois, Jaillet, Rochebrune and Côte 2000, and I am sure they are looking beautiful at this time of year. Wikipedia says that the resort was established in 1910 and took off when the Rothschilds favoured it after they found St Moritz too low-grade, and that many consider it to be one of the most beautiful resorts in the world.




Weatherwise, the sun is presently shining in  Megève, and the temperature is an invigorating -2 degrees. 85% of the ski area is open. This is the 'Snow Cam' and it's lookin' gooooood....!

Les Fermes de Marie
As to my carefully chosen accommodations, where I hope to spend a week in the "Spacious rooms inundated with light...", these are delectably described on the website of Les Fermes de Marie (which I think translates as 'Marie's Farm', which would explain all the rustic-ness). I cannot do better than to quote the hotel's description of itself, which has me drooling in expectation:

A short distance from the centre of Megève lies a place outside time and far from the everyday world: Les Fermes de Marie.It consists of a little hamlet of high mountain farms several centuries old, where the charming decoration is matched by the soul in every pieces of furniture, and the patina on every object.


As to my particular room, it is described as having a "woody aspect with a terrace or a balcony, an open lounge area to the room, separated bathroom with bath on stoneware or slate. South to south east exposure." Note that last point carefully: that must mean the best chance of sunlight, right? (Southern Hemisphere readers: make the necessary corrections in aspect).


But wait, there's more....Discover the Spa of Les Fermes de Marie, the very first of the Pure Altitude Spas, whose design is a balance of five elements. Amid a blend of stone, wood, livingwater, plants and fire, all the elements have been gathered together to point the way back to serenity and fullness...
The 17 treatment rooms, the indoor swimming pool with view over the gardens, the sauna and the fitness room are an invitation to relaxation...a soothing environment from which you emerge rebalanced.


Other people. Not me.


Ahh...I will emerge rebalanced? Excellent. And for non-skiiers such as myself, while waiting for the skiing companions to return so that aprés ski can commence, it seems that Megève offers a number of alternatives (if I get tired of the spa, the novels and the "Spacious rooms inundated with light...", which, frankly, doesn't seem likely), such as exhibitions, horse-drawn carriage rides, a museum with a 17th century chapel, shopping in the quaint village, or a guided tour to something which appears to be a Sacred Mountain:

The Calvary (Le Calvaire) An important pilgrimage site of the 19 th century, ‘le Calvaire’ is registered as one of the Sacred Mountains of Europe and is additionally noted as an historic monument. Here are 15 chapels and oratories, two of which are dedicated to Mary. They retrace the Stations of the Cross and feature several colourful statues, frescos and trompe l’oeil paintings. 


And from another website:
Megève, the original chic resort, frequented by royalty and stars alike. Very much a traditional French resort, Megève is an old village that oozes charisma and traditional Alpine charm. It boasts gastronomic delights, as well as some of the most varied nightlife of any Alpine venue...
All in all, I can't wait. So if you don't hear from me for a week or so, you'll know what I am doing. If you don't hear from me for a month or so, you'll know what I am still doing. *excited*



Megeve Village



Images from:
http://www.cheapflights.co.uk/flight-guide-to-Megeve/
http://www.venere.com/france/megeve/
http://www.alpsalacarte.com/Megeve/Megeve.htm
http://blog.paradizo.com/vacation-rentals/eden-luxury-homes-megeve/
http://www.mountainpassions.com/winter_ski/resort_reviews/alps/ski_megeve.html

Monday, December 20, 2010

Snowland Update


Greta & Kaiser get into the holiday spirit

I'll be home for Christmas
You can count on me
Please have snow and mistletoe
And presents under the tree
Christmas Eve will find me
Where the love light beams
I'll be home for Christmas
If only in my dreams


This morning's press
The newspapers are filled with the chaos caused by Europe's unseasonable cold snap and the buckets of snow that are being spread all over the place. While I wait to see what adventures today holds for me, I thought I'd give you some real-time updates (as the airline sites phrase it):

London. The latest from Qantas: "Severe weather conditions continue to cause airport closures in Europe which have resulted in a number of scheduled Qantas services to and from London Heathrow delayed or disrupted. Scheduled departures for 20 December are expected to operate as well as some services which had been delayed from 18 and 19 December, based on the latest information from the airport authorities." 

My plan is to be on QF2, scheduled to depart at 9.45 pm London time, Monday, and to be home for Christmas....let's all hold that thought! 

St Pancras in her winter outfit
Eurostar concourse at St Pancras. Going nowhere fast.
Paris. I did have a kind offer of a spare room and Christmas festivities from Marilyn and Jim in Paris, but one look at the Eurostar concourse this morning shows that Paris is as inaccessible as Sydney at the moment. Possibly even more so. The ticket office is closed, with a sign saying that all seats are sold. The queues to board snake several time around the long concourse. There have been cancellations and reduced services.

Be nice if I could get there...!
Luxembourg City: Brigitta and Michael attempted to fly out of Luxembourg City for sunny California yesterday, but without success. They then took a train to reach the main airport at Mainz in Germany, but that too was delayed. Last I heard, they were sitting on an all-stops local train because it was a warmer option than waiting at the station for the express...'California Dreaming' . Brigitta reported that Luxembourg had not had this much snow in 100 years.

Luxembourg City looking very pretty
Indiana: One person who takes all this snow in his stride is that native of small-town Indiana, Kyle. He is flying home for Christmas later this week (assuming planes are getting out) and laughs off the thought of deep snow drifts and temperatures as much as -20 below. Clearly they raise 'em tough in Indiana.

Heading, er, north.
Scotland: There is one Merry Crew planning to embrace their inner snowman and actually spend the New Year in Inverness in Scotland. Yes, this is the chosen holiday destination for Kyle, Andrew, Rachel, their friend Scott, and the dogs Greta and Kaiser. Driving and flying, they will head for a remote cottage at 57°47′N, with no mobile phone signal, no television signal and no internet. Just to put that in perspective, that latitude is higher than Gothenberg in Sweden, higher than Moscow, and only a little lower than St Petersburg. Only six hours of daylight, I am told, and already three feet of snow. That's why I gave them fiction for Christmas. 

Village near Inverness. On a good day.
"Real Time Update": 4.45 pm: Flight to Sydney is still scheduled to depart in five hours. No more snow has fallen. The Eurostar queue is now out of the station, down Pancras Road, around the corner and up Euston Road. People are being given flyers setting out their rights; coffee vendors are becoming millionaires. 

I took a walk to the shops, and posted some photos on FaceBook. This link might work.

"Real Time Update": 5.45 pm. The Qantas flight status site has crashed. I'm heading off to meet the car now, into the bedlam that is St Pancras, and thence to Heathrow Terminal Three. Wish me luck. 



Images from: